Expert Sewing Tip
by Karen Laqua

What Pattern Size Should I Buy?

First, ignore what size you buy in ready-to-wear. No standard sizing exists for clothing manufacturers. They typically use vanity sizing to help sell more clothing, and manufacturers know that, psychologically, women prefer wearing a smaller size. Thankfully, major pattern companies have collaborated on standardized measurements, and you will always buy the same size pattern (until your body changes).

Start by taking your body measurements wearing only undergarments. Include your chest (under arms, above full bust, and across upper back keeping tape measure level), full bust, waist, and full hip. See example to the right.

Next, compare your measurements to the standard measurements provided on the pattern envelope as shown below. Use your chest measurement rather than full bust, especially if you wear a B-cup or larger bra size.

My Measurements: Chest 35” Bust 37” Waist 28-1/2” Hip 38”

For example, comparing my waist, hip, and full bust measurement exclusively, I should purchase a size 14, but using my chest measurement, I am between a 12 and 14. The next step is to consider personal preferences. I like a closer fit and have a slightly smaller bone structure, so I decide to purchase a size 12 pattern. Also, prior sewing projects using a size 14 looked a little big and sloppy, and I almost always took in the side seams. I find it easier to start with a good fit around the neck, shoulder, and armholes, and increase the full bust, waist and hip area with a multi-size pattern. Selecting the correct size pattern involves personal preferences as well as actual body measurements.

Finally, realize that you will make mistakes. After all, are you happy with every garment you’ve purchased and have hanging in your closet? Not every pattern and fabric will be right for you just as not every style in a clothing store is suitable. An understanding of how to select your pattern size, an appreciation of your unique body shape, and a knowledge of your personal style will set you on the path to sewing more garments successfully. It is also important to select the correct pattern style.